Mutso

Cover image © Mikheil Gogichashvili

Perched on a craggy mountain at an elevation of 1,880 meters (6,168 feet), Mutso is a striking example of Georgia’s remote and mysterious heritage. Located in the historic province of Khevsureti, now part of the Mtskheta-Mtianeti region, this ancient village stands watch over the Ardoti River Valley. For centuries, it served as a stronghold, its cluster of approximately 30 medieval stone houses, four combat towers, and numerous ruins dominating the landscape.

Although the village was abandoned over a century ago, its original architecture remains mostly intact. The stone structures of Mutso are ingeniously built into the steep mountainside, blending into the rocky terrain as if they were natural extensions of the land. These buildings, made primarily of slate, are tightly packed and form a defensive wall, creating a fortress-like atmosphere that once protected the inhabitants from northern invaders.

Getting to Mutso is not for the faint of heart. The narrow mountain paths that lead to this secluded village are challenging, but the reward is a stunning panoramic view of the Mutso-Ardoti Gorge, the sweeping hills of Khevsureti, and the sense of stepping back in time. Adventurers, hikers, and ethnography enthusiasts find this destination particularly enchanting.

The Mutso Rehabilitation Project, launched in 2004, has brought new life to the area. After years of meticulous restoration, the project earned the prestigious Europa Nostra Award in 2019, a testament to its significance in preserving cultural heritage. The reconstruction efforts have ensured that visitors today can explore this fascinating place with its combat towers, fortress houses, and shrines intact. One of the most notable sites is the shrine of St. George of Broliskalo, a revered spot where local legends and traditions still echo through the valleys.

Mutso is also steeped in myth. According to local lore, the villagers worshiped an ancient icon of the Archangel, considering themselves part of a sacred army that guarded a legendary treasure hidden somewhere in the surrounding mountains. The treasure, as the legend goes, remains undiscovered, waiting for the “chosen one” to claim it.

Visiting Mutso is best done between late May and mid-October when the weather is more forgiving and the paths are safer. Once the first snow falls, the journey becomes treacherous. There are no accommodations in Mutso itself, so travelers often stay in nearby Shatili or Ardoti, where guesthouses provide a comfortable respite. The village of Mutso also offers picturesque spots for camping, perfect for those who prefer to sleep under the stars.

Though small in size, Mutso leaves a profound impression on those who venture here. It stands as a monument to the resilience of its people, a place where stories from centuries past are carved into every stone and tower.

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