Located amidst the scenic landscapes of Svaneti, on the journey from Mestia to Ushguli, stands the enigmatic 'Tower of Love'. This structure, perched on a gigantic boulder in the middle of the Enguri river, exudes an aura of mystery and romance, rich with centuries-old tales of unrequited love.
The tower itself is a marvel of ancient architecture, spanning four stories and several meters high. The floors, which sit significantly high above each other, are interconnected by steep vertical stairs, requiring a cautious ascent by visitors. The thick, sturdy walls of the tower have withstood the test of time and are a testament to the lasting durability of such structures.
However, it's the legend surrounding the tower that truly sets it apart. The tale tells of a beautiful woman named Miaguli Pirveli, who fell in love with a skilled hunter, Otia Margvelani, during the Kvirikoba festival. Their love was complex; Otia was a married man with five children, and Miaguli was unwilling to disrupt his family.
Overcome by grief, Otia succumbed to an accident while hunting and fell into the Enguri river, meeting his tragic end. His wife, unable to bear the loss, threw herself into the river and perished. Legend has it that the couple was reincarnated as trout in the river. Miaguli, touched by their fate, had the tower built where she chose to spend the rest of her life, daily feeding the fishes she believed to hold the souls of the star-crossed lovers.
During periods of low water level in Enguri, a clear spring emerges from the base of the boulder, locally referred to as 'Miaguli's tears'. The spring further enhances the tower's romantic allure, adding an element of intrigue and sorrow to its stoic facade.
A different version of the tower's story refers to a heartbroken wife, who after the death of her husband in war, lived in the tower, hoping for his return. This solitary existence amidst the rugged landscapes of Svaneti embodies the melancholic beauty and strength that the tower represents.
Entering the tower is like stepping into a poignant piece of history. The structure is akin to a regular house with four stories, albeit with the added challenge of ladder-like stairs and simple log-based floors. The darkness inside, lit only by the sparse windows, enhances the air of melancholy associated with the tower.
The Tower of Love is not just a tale of lost love; it is a testament to the region's historical architecture. Between the 9th and 12th centuries, many locals lived in similar towers, representing a unique era of Georgian architecture. This element of historical context adds depth to the tower's significance, making it a must-visit monument for anyone exploring the rugged beauty of Svaneti.
